Creating Settings in Wax + Stone Setting: Bezel, Prong & Claw| October 12-15

Schedule: 

Day 1 9:00 am – 5:00 pm (lunch 12–1) 

Day 4 9:00 am – 5:00 pm (lunch 12–1) 

This 4 day intensive class focuses on designing and carving stone settings in wax, followed by hands on stone setting in cast sterling silver rings. You will learn how to carve both a bezel setting and a prong or claw setting directly in wax, with an emphasis on creating designs that cast cleanly and set securely. You will create two rings: one bezel set ring for an oval faceted cubic zirconia, and one prong or claw setting for a marquis cubic zirconia. While you may choose between prong or claw styles for your second ring, demonstrations for both styles will be covered in the class. I will complete the castings in sterling silver on the morning of Day 3 as casting is not covered in this class. Once the rings are cast, the class will transition into stone setting practice, polishing, and finishing, allowing you to complete your rings with guided instruction. By the end of the class, you will leave with a strong understanding of how to design, carve, spru placement, finishing techniques and setting stones. (Finished rings will be no more than 20 grams of silver each.) 

Day 1: Bezel Setting in Wax + Carving for Castability 

• Introduction to carving settings in wax with a focus on designs that cast successfully. 

• Discussion of wall thickness, undercuts, stone seats, and common casting issues to avoid. 

•  Demonstration and hands on carving of a bezel set ring for an oval faceted CZ. 

•  How to properly size, shape, and support a bezel for secure stone setting after casting. 

Day 2: Prong / Claw Setting in Wax + Spruing Fundamentals 

•  Demonstration and hands on carving of a prong or claw setting ring (student’s choice). 

• Review of both prong and claw setting styles so students understand each approach. 

•  Introduction to spruing fundamentals, including sprue placement, thickness, and flow. 

•  Preparing wax models for successful casting. 

Day 3: Stone Setting Fundamentals (Practice) 

(Casting completed by me prior to class) 

•  Demonstration of bezel setting round and fancy shaped stones using brass practice rings. 

• Demonstration and practice of prong setting fundamentals on brass rings. 

•  How to properly seat stones, adjust settings, and secure stones safely. 

•  Discussion of common mistakes and troubleshooting during stone setting. 

Day 4: Setting Your Cast Rings + Finishing 

•  Students receive their cast sterling silver rings. 

• Hands on setting of stones into their own rings with close guidance. 

•  Refining prongs and bezels for clean, professional results. 

• Introduction to sanding, polishing, and final finishing techniques. 

•  Tips for evaluating finished work and improving future designs. 

Open to all levels (must be 16 and up due to sharp tools and safety concerns). 

This class is ideal for beginners and developing jewelers who want to build foundational skills in setting stones through wax carving.